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Your new sod lawn increases your property value significantly.
With proper care, it will remain a great asset, providing beauty, a clean
playing surface, and an improved environment.
Mow often, generally removing no more than 1/3 of the grass height at a mowing.
Keep your mower blade sharp. Fertilizer and chemical applications will depend on
climate, sod type, soil, insects, weed and disease conditions.
Choosing the Type of Lawn for your Ft Lauderdale Home
There are several grass species that grow well in South Florida and provide a
beautiful, thick, green lawn.
However, these species vary widely in their adaptation, and may be suited for
particular environments or locations around the state.
Selection of the proper grass species is the first step in creating a healthy,
high quality lawn for your home.
Before you decide on a grass species there are a few things to consider:
What type of lawn is desired or expected?
Whether you desire a highly manicured showcase lawn or are
looking for an average ground cover that will provide a place for outdoor
recreation can determine what grass you choose.
What level of lawn maintenance can you provide?
Do you do your own yard work, and if so, do you have adequate time and knowledge
to maintain your lawn properly, or do you hire a professional landscape
maintenance firm to do your work?
Is the area shaded, moist, dry?
Do you have an irrigation system?
Are there soil problems that might limit grass growth?
Some species tolerate environmental stresses such as shade,
moist or dry soil, or soil physical or chemical problems better than others.
It's important to choose the right species for your particular environment.
How Much shod should your order?
SOD is usually sold by square feet. Measure your lawn area
(length x width) to determine the amount of sod you'll need.
If the area you want to sod is a basic square or rectangle you simply measure
the length by the width and multiply to come up with the total square feet.
However, most lawns do not have a simple rectangle layout. In those cases, one
method of calculating your SF is to divide your area into smaller sections, and
add the SF of each section.
Soil Preparation
Proper soil preparation prior to grass planting is critical to
ensure the establishment of a quality lawn.
Preparation will determine how quickly the lawn becomes established and its
long-term maintenance requirements.
Soil should be prepared whether you are planting a new lawn or replanting an old
one
Clean and Rough Grade.
Remove all construction debris, brush, large roots, rocks, weeds and old tree
stumps.
If extensive grading is needed, remove the topsoil and stockpile it for
replacement after the rough grade is established.
The site should be sloped at 1 to 2% (e.g., ½- to 1-foot fall per 50 feet) away
from the house. The rough grade should conform to the final grade after the
topsoil is replaced.
Swales or mounds with steep slopes more than 10% should be sodded and not seeded
due to erosion problems.
Poorly-drained soil may require installation of drainage lines.
Tile drains are typically placed in rows 2 to 3 feet deep and 15 to 20 feet
apart.
These should be installed so that at least a 1% fall for drainage is available.
Seek professional advice if uncertain about the type or installation procedure.
Steep slopes and mounds currently used as catch basins around many condominium
and commercial buildings should be avoided because it is difficult to establish
grass and maintain proper moisture levels, and they make mowing dangerous.
If an area cannot be leveled, use ground cover plants other than turfgrass.
Control of perennial weeds, such as bermudagrass and torpedograss should be
performed during site preparation.
Several applications of a nonselective herbicide such as glyphosate (Roundup) or
commercial fumigation may be necessary for complete weed control.
Soil Analysis
You should always obtain a soil analysis before planting.
A representative soil sample can be obtained by collecting small plugs or garden
trowels of soil at 15 to 20 locations around the yard from the top 6 inches of
soil.
Samples should be combined in a pan or bucket and thoroughly mixed.
A portion of this can then be submitted to the Florida Extension Soil Testing
Laboratory.
County Cooperative Extension Service offices can supply additional information
on soil testing.
A soil test will determine the pH value and the report will indicate whether pH
adjustment is necessary. If the soil is too acidic (pH too low), dolomitic
limestone (dolomite) is recommended for increasing soil pH. Application should
be based on a lime requirement which considers both soil buffering capacity and
soil pH value.
If the soil is analyzed by the Florida Extension Soil Testing Laboratory, a lime
requirement determination will be provided. If the analysis is made at the
county Cooperative Extension Service or by a commercial laboratory, this may not
be included unless requested.
In lieu of a lime requirement analysis, the application of 1 ton of dolomite per
acre or 50 pounds per 1000 square feet is sufficient to increase the pH of most
Florida soils one pH unit, for example, from pH 5.0 to 6.0.
A desirable pH range for most turf-grasses is 5.5 to 7.0. Certain soils in
Florida are basic, meaning that their pH levels are greater than 7.0. Turf grown
on soils with pH levels greater than 7.0 often display deficiencies in minor
nutrients such as iron and manganese.
Further details on soil pH adjustment can be obtained from the Florida
Cooperative Extension Service in your particular county.
Based on soil test analysis, fertilizer should be applied to correct nutrient
level deficiencies in the soil.
Phosphorous is generally found in sufficient quantity in Florida soils, and
seldom needs to be added prior to planting. Potassium may be added prior to
planting, if the soil test indicates it is needed.
A starter fertilizer should be used at the time of establishment with vegetative
plantings, but delayed until after germination if the area is seeded.
Fertilization ratios and analysis used will depend primarily on soil test
results and local product availability. A general recommendation is to use a
turf-type fertilizer in 412 or 1-0-1 ratios with micronutrients.
Apply at a rate of ½ to1 pound of soluble nitrogen per 1000 square feet. (See
the chapter on "Understanding Soil Analysis and Fertilization" in this
publication for further information).
Deep Tillage
Roto-tilling loosens compacted soil and improves the speed and
depth of rooting.
If soil amendments, lime, or fertilizer have been added in the preceding steps,
the soil should be tilled as deeply as possible, preferably 6 to 8 inches.
A tractor-mounted or self-propelled rotary tiller will do an adequate job of
tilling the soil.
Final Grading
Final grading completed just prior to planting provides a smooth
planting bed.
The site can be hand-raked and dragged with a hand-pulled drag like a metal
doormat.
Large areas can be smoothed by tractor-drawn equipment with a tiller rake or
grading box and then hand-finished.
Soil particles should be no larger than golf ball size, with even smaller sizes
preferable.
To achieve a uniformly firm planting bed and to reduce erosion, loose soil can
be compressed with a water ballast roller.
Care should be taken not to add too much weight and cause soil compaction.
Driveways and walks should be level with, or slightly above, the final grade.
A good job of grading will result in a more level site and a more attractive
lawn that is easy to mow. Irrigation can be used to settle the soil before
planting.
Hand raking to break up a crusty surface is necessary prior to seeding.
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